Monday, July 19, 2010

A Buenos Aires Sunday

The true side of Buenos Aires comes out on the weekends when the stores are closed and the city is quiet, unless you know where to go. Buenos Aires is known for its outdoor fairs and markets, and the weekend really brings these markets to life. Recoleta has a great outdoor artisan market called Plaza Francia that runs each weekend, most commonly referred to as the "Hippie Fair.” This market wraps around the famous Recoleta cemetery where famous Eva “Evita” Peron has been laid to rest. The Recoleta neighborhood is filled with parks, fine museums, galleries, elegant sidewalk cafes and bars as well as many trendy shops and upscale homes. However on the weekends the Recoleta market draws in tourists and locals who come to buy souvenirs and artifacts at the best prices possible. This is one of the reasons why the market is so popular with the local people. The market sets up shop with stalls offering leather goods, local handicrafts and trinkets. The artisans of the city display their goods for eager shoppers and tourists. The market expands for more than a block, creating a snake weave path of tables and booths. The venders sell everything from paintings and pictures to musical instruments, clothing and crafts. Walking between booths everything catches the eye. Most of the merchandise in the outdoor market carries a local flavor and is the perfect place for those who want to get an idea of the city’s essence. There is a lot handmade jewelry made of Argentinian silver and the native pink stone, rhodochrosite. The artists are very proud of their crafts and make an effort to greet you with “holas” and smiles as you pass by. Later in the afternoon there are acts that set up live entertainment, during daylight hours it is usually some sort of acrobatic or slapstick comedy act and at night there are live bands. Walking vendors sell warm peanuts and cinnamon churros. Large wheeled carts pass by with hot water for mate, local favorite of the portenos. The hustle and bustle of the market is fun to walk through, and the things people can make out of wire and silver and leather is extravagant. It is fascinating to see the goods on display, but more fun to watch the artists making them. The market is the best way to get a feel for the true native side of Buenos Aires. Beyond just the things that are sold, the people are the most fascinating to interact with. They love to talk and explain how they made their products and how they are made. They know the history of the silver and stones and leather they use and are proud to show off their crafts. The market is rich with people, and is fun to take time to appreciate the skills that went into the goods.

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