Last Week

As I prepare myself for my final days in Buenos Aires I look back onto the experience I have had this semester abroad. I have learned so much about the world by virtue of opening my eyes to new cultures. I learned that being connected to the world is beyond news headlines, it is sharing experiences and having the eagerness to do so. Having a semester abroad taught me that I can rely on myself, and in a situation I can do anything. Granted, the comfort of a major city helped me adjust. However, learning to live for fives months in a country while learning the native tongue had me bound a few times. Study abroad gave me perspective on the world, on myself and on others. I have learned a lot about independence and responsibility in this city. I have learned that to be a good friend takes a good friend, because no matter how big the city may be, you always can use someone by your side. Buenos Aires has taught me to always expect the unexpected, whether it comes to issues with visas or just a rainy day. I am prepared to take on challenges that come my way and I feel confident in my abilities thanks to this study abroad experience. I will always have Boston on my mind, but Buenos Aires will be in my heart.

Ushuaia: Pinguinos and Snow Capped Mountains

The past weekend I spent in a frozen city at the very bottom of the world, the "Tierra del Fuego", the province of capital city Ushuaia. It is the southernmost city in the world, nearly 9.000 km from Antartica. As a group, we gathered Saturday morning at the local airport for our flight. All eager, and ready for winter weather we were on our way. Three hours later we landed in the port city and were greeted by the massive snow peaked mountains. The small city was built on the foothills of the mountains. The view is picturesque from all of the streets of the city. As we drove to our hotel we pass by big cargo boats on the water and small souvenir shops on the street. After settling in, we explore the little city and all it has to offer. We poke our heads in the sweet smelling chocolate shops and marvel at the giant sea crabs in the restaurant windows. Back at the hotel, we clutched our hot cups of tea close and watched the sun set over the mountains.

That following day we had a train tour of the rural part of the city. We clambered into the coaches and watched the tall green trees pass by our windows. Horses grazed alongside the train. The massiveness of the mountains put into perspective how small we are! After out train ride through the valley we jumped back on our bus and headed towards the port for a boat tour of the penguin´s islands. We were grateful to have seats inside the cabin of the boat because outside on the open water was freezing! Above us, circled seagulls looking for fishing boats. We could hear the roar of the sea lions before we approached their rocky island. The fuzzy beasts were accompanied by condors who fooled some tourists into thinking they were penguins because of their black and white tuxedos. After a couple of hours on the water we made our way to the island of the penguins. The little birds were splashing in the frigid water and making nests of pebbles. After we all awed and ran our camera batteries dry from too many pictures we made our way back to port and bundled up for the night.

Sunday morning we took a bus tour of the crystal lakes of Ushuaia. The lakes were so clear that the surrounding mountains reflected in their waters. The pebble beaches had perfect stones for skipping across the glass lake. Some of the locals drove by on jet skis and waved hola to us. The sun was high and warm at 48 degrees. We had been spoiled with Buenos Aires tropical weather. Everyone adorned knit hats and sweaters under big winter jackets. We spent the day outside of town and enjoyed lunch at a local bakery which also hosted an exotic bird sanctuary. We left the city with warm Buenos Aires on our minds, and hundreds of photos on our cameras.

Before, during and after

Studying abroad can be a wonderful experience if you are prepared and know what to expect. These are some of the things I have done during my study abroad semester which benefitted me in the long run.

Make and keep a budget before and during the trip. It is important to keep track of your spending and funds while you are abroad. Often, you will be only studying when abroad and not making any income. Keep all of your receipts and your checkbook active.

Do research on the country before you go and continue to stay connected while in the country. For Argentina, national pride sweeps the nation and people are very proud of their culture and history. It shows initiative if you read up on the history and the culture of the country before you go. Also, while you are abroad stay active with the news and be aware of the politics and events going on.

Keep everything organized! Between school papers, important documents, receipts, letters, and more! It is priceless. It is easy to be swept up into the lifestyle of living abroad in a big city, but if you are organized it will make life much easier!

Wake up everyday with courage to try something new. Schedules and routines are great, but stepping out of your comfort zone allows for self discovery.

Follow the customs and rituals of the host country. Try to avoid the comforts of home and do new things that the locals do!

Keep connections with people you meet. Not only the other study abroad students at the university but the locals as well. It can be helpful to have someone to rely on who knows the city. Also, networking has its advantages!

Just by doing some of these simple things my study abroad experience was wonderful. I have three more weeks in Buenos Aires until I return home, but I will keep exploring and enjoying the city until then!

It's not about how much you know, it's about how you work with what you do know.

Exploring

One of the greatest aspects of study abroad is having the chance to challenge yourself with new opportunities everyday. I make a point to try something new, or go somewhere different everyday. This way, I meet new people, learn more things and experience a part of the culture beyond the monuments and buildings. Most days, I pick a point on my map and explore. It is fascinating to see the city operate behind the scenes.

The city is filled with so many different neighborhoods and barrios filled with different types of people. As I walk from one neighborhood to the next I pass under the detailed architecture of the city and admire the Italian influence on the city. I see the colored buses driving by, stirring up the pigeons in the street. The blocks are separated by little parks where people sit and have mate while their dogs run free. I take a moment to sit and enjoy the landscape before me. Under the coconut trees of Palermo I hear the parakeets chirping loudly. The rollerbladers skate by fast racing with the taxis. As I get into Belgrano I am awed at the massiveness of the embassies that line the streets.

Recently, there have been political demonstrations in the city by public school kids who are protesting the government spending on private institutions. Large crowds of students gather in the streets with their banners waving against the sun. They come in hundreds and are loud with drums and horns. Away from the crowd I can enjoy some of the hidden gems of the city, the art. Most prominently in Palermo Soho as well as Belgrano, the buildings are marked with big colorful paintings.

During the early 1950’s, Argentina went through a depression losing about 70% of its peso value. Juan Peron, who was president at this time was overthrown by a military coup. The state of the country was in a depression as well. In an effort to restore hope to the people, artists were commissioned to paint grand murals all over the city to illuminate the dark situation. Now, the city is covered with these massive masterpieces which still bring a smile to people’s faces when they pass by buildings.

The amazing thing about exploring is that you come across hidden secrets of the city that are beyond wikipedia and travel guides. I love taking the road less traveled to see what I can come across; in this case, Buenos Aires in total is the road less traveled.

Buenos Aires, Beyond the City

Taking day trips out of the city has been an experience to refresh, recharge and learn of the people of Buenos Aires beyond the buildings and buses.

We have taken a few day trips to leave the city and see grass again.

First, we went for the day to an estancia an hour past the city. An estancia is similar to a ranch, full of horses, cows and plenty of roaming room. We took a long dirt road to the house and when we arrived we were greeted by puppies and hot breakfast. We had coffee and medialunas around a big wooden table overlooking the flat plains of the estancia. The weather was perfect for a day on the ranch. The sun was set high as we lounged around the lawn with puppies and listening to the horses in the pasture neighing. We saddled the horses and rode around the estancia like real gauchos. After exploring the ranch we found sheep and cows and even a snake in the fields! Some of the boys took turns trying their luck with a boleadora, a type of Argentine lasso. For lunch, we were treated with a traditional style asado, like a coal fired barbecue. The family’s teenage boys entertained us with horse racing around hay barrels. They ran their horses in and out of the barrels. We gathered on the porch to dance tango and folk dancing provided by the enthusiastic singer of the family, grandpa. We laughed and sang along to the gaucho songs and were happy to see coffee and tea put out after a long day. We watched the day end around the pool with happy little puppies on our laps.

The trip to the estancia left us tired and dirty, but had us longing for city life again. We saw no other neighbors or heard the family sounds of the city at the estancia. Although it was well needed to get out and breathe the fresh air of the country, we all still had our busy city in our hearts.

A few weeks following this excursion we left in the morning for a trip up the Rio de la Plata to Tigre. We took the train to Tigre and from there we took a ferry up the river to a remote island. The train serves as a taxi to the river residents because there are no roads connecting the neighbors back to the center of town. As we were traveling the river we passed by small river houses equipped with elaborate docks to harbor their boats. The lawns were lush green and colored with brilliant flowers and palm trees along the river’s edge. We passed an amusement park and heard the kids laughing from the Ferris wheel overlooking the small town. Dogs chased our boat as we passed by the homes and small motorboats competed for room against our long ferry. Once we got to the house we had breakfast of dulce de leche torta and orange juice. We took the opportunity to dip our toes in the river and lay out on the lush lawn.

The boys of the home took out their long rowing boats to teach us to navigate the river. As a team we rowed and laughed when we messed up the pattern of the paddles. We sang rowing songs and some American pop too! The sun felt good on our backs as we were rowing back to shore for lunch. We made milenesa sandwiches and had fresh tomatoes and eggs. After lunch some jumped off the dock into the river! It looked too cold for my liking. We took a “nature walk” through the swamp of the backyard and got our shoes stuck in the deep mud. We were waist deep in nature and were laughing the entire way! When we got back to our house we washed our clothes in the river and listened to our host mother for the day tell us about the geography of Argentina and its history. We were a tired group and ready to go home to shower! Our ferry boat picked us up and took us back to port where we took the train back home to the city.

Even more dirty than our trip to estancia, we were excited to see river life and glad to experience a part of Buenos Aires that lies beyond the sidewalks. Each of these excursions leaves a mark in our mind of how vast and different each part of this amazing country is. We have seen the enormous tropical waterfalls of Iguazu, the dry flat plains of the estancia as well as the life on the Rio de la Plata. Buenos Aires is much more than the city. It is a fascinating learning experience to be a part of these trips beyond our city neighborhood.

Family Reunited

For weeks I had been anticipating the visit of my father to the city for a week. I had set out itineraries, lists of restaurants and multiple back up agendas. I was ecstatic waiting for this week to come, just so I could see a familiar face and talk in real time instead of Skype! As the day neared I was counting down in my head the hours until I could get a real daddy hug. As I walked in the airport I saw him standing in the corner waiting for me. I dashed across the lobby grinning from ear to ear! He was finally here! As I turned to leave he diverted me towards a money converter, insisting that he get change. As we stood in line both my mother and sister came from behind him! A full family surprise! I was blindsided, but even more excited that the whole gang was here in Buenos Aires together!

Driving through the city to their hotel I was pointing out buildings and monuments that we would see in the following week. Although tired from traveling, they wanted to set out and see the city. We took the subte to calle Florida to walk the long street of shops and the Plaza de Mayo. I had to break for class, and they took a break for siesta. After, I showed them around my neighborhood, pointing out all of my favorite stores and magnificent buildings that I am neighbored with. We ate at one of my favorite restaurants, Madeline’s, where we had empanadas, milenesas and pizzas. We followed the cobblestone street up to the cemetery and peered in the cultural center; a free art exhibit. We even got to see a sculptor at work. We watched the sunset over the city and left for ice cream at Volta.

Having no class on Friday is excellent because I was able to spend the whole day with my family. We walked all the way to El Centro, to Silvia y Mario’s, a leather shop. One of the first things to check off my dad's itinerary. We spent the day shopping and exploring the city. We went all the way to Plaza Italia to a winery that my dad was interesting in as well. Argentina is known for it's excellent leathers as well as it's wine. The malbec is world famous, grown from the grape vines of Mendoza. At the winery, I had my mom and sister try mate, which they did not like at all! Mate is a traditional tea that all Argentinians drink. It is served hot in a gourd from a metal bombilla, or straw. The Yerba Mate is bitter, but has an excess of caffeine, which is why the gauchos on the Pampas drink so much of it! Later, I took them to my university in Belgrano, which was decorated for primavera. The university was also featuring student’s art projects, so the lobby was weaved with the exhibits. That night, we went to a parrilla in Recoletta, where they were able to have an authentic Argentinian cooked steak.

Saturday was another beautiful day in the city, which was perfect for walking the cemetery and the Recoletta markets. My sister found plenty of trinkets for her friends at home, and we all enjoyed looking at the crafts at the fair. We had dinner at the famous Cafe Tortoni which has hosted many famous faces from around the world. After dinner, we went downstairs to the tango show. The music, dancers and actors were all full of energy, it almost made me want to dance on stage!

Since Buenos Aires shuts down on Sundays we took advantage of the San Telmo antique markets. We started from the Casa Rosada at el centro and walked the markets straight through to San Telmo. Almost 22 blocks! We found scarves and colorful jewelry and some traditional Tom’s footwear that the Argentine’s wear! We broke off from Telmo and explored Puerto Madero too. We crossed the famous walking bridge, Puente de la Mujer. The big sailboats and private yachts made for a beautiful backdrop in mom’s many photos of us.

Monday we explored the gardens of Palermo, starting first at my favorite, the Rosedal. The sun was perfect for lounging in the grass and enjoying the swans and birds bathing in the pools. We took a horse drawn carriage around the gardens and stopped at Plaza Italia for lunch. We enjoyed the sauna at the hotel and relaxed for the night laughing about the week and enjoying each other's company after a few months apart.

I forgot how much I had missed my family until they were here with me! I am not accustomed to going long periods of time without seeing them, so being in Buenos Aires for five months was a big change! It was an interesting experience sharing my city with them and all the things I love because I wanted them to see it all, when all they were interested in was seeing me! As we walked the city they used me as a translator, which was a great way to practice my Spanish comprehension! It was sometimes difficult to relay messages back from English to Spanish but, it helped! It was amazing being able to share the things I love with the people I love!

Hamburgesa Completa

Good Eats

One of my favorite things about traveling, is discovering new foods! I had expectations of Argentina’s food being more similar to central American cuisine, with spices, rice and fajita wraps. Instead, I found that because of the Italian influence there are more pizzerias and pasta houses than burrito stands! The pizza is usually thin crust, little tomato sauce and overflowing with mozzarella cheese. The most popular pizzas are jamon y queso, with slices of ham and cheese, as well as napolitana, which is mozzarella, tomato slices and basil.

The pasta as well is very popular and full of cheese! Most popular is the Italian dish, gnocchi. Gnocchis are little rolled up pastas with cheese inside. They are delicious, but filling! Here, we have gnocchis on the last day of every month, a little tradition Julio does for the family.

Similar to American diets, Buenos Aires has choripans, or complete hotdogs. Choripans come complete with a hotdog, topped with ketchup, mustard, relish and fried sticks similar to potato sticks. They are a local favorite here.

Another local favorite as well as one of my favorites are the empanadas. Empanadas are baked pockets that are filled with either beef, jamon and queso, or anything else you can imagine. They are similar to hotpockets, but in the shape of a half moon. Empanadas come baked, or fried and sometimes even as a dessert filled with dulce de leche.

Dulce de leche, “sweet milk,” is a caramel spread which is put on everything, similar to our use of peanut butter. It comes in many forms such as, coffee flavors, ice cream, sandwich fillers and in alfahores as well.

Alfahores are pastries filled with dulce de leche. In between two cakes is a layer of dulce. The look similar to whoopie pies, but with white cake and caramel spread. There are hundreds of different types of alfahores to chose from. I love the cracker alfahores, covered with white chocolate as opposed to the soft cake alfahores covered with milk chocolate.

Apart from all the carbs, Argentina is most well known for it’s cattle industry. Every other restaurant in Buenos Aires is a parrilla, or steak house. You can smell the coal burning ovens from the street, roasting huge portions of meat on skewers. Because of the abundance of steak and meat, it is very easy to get a good portioned meal for very cheap. A three course steak meal in Buenos Aires costs a little over $20.

Also, Buenos Aires is popular in it’s hamburgesas completa. These massive burgers are topped with cheese, lettuce, tomato, plenty of pickles, ham, and a fried egg. They make a mess, but the combination of meats and flavors is extraordinary!

Eating is not a problem in Buenos Aires, but there are days when I long for a peanut butter sandwich or an American burger! For now, I will munch on alfahores and empanadas while I can!

Getting Around -Transportation Culture

In a city, there are many things to do, many places to see and be. Of course, modes of transportation are important. In Buenos Aires, where all the barrios, or neighborhoods, are so close, it is easy to walk around the city. Every morning on my commute to school I tread across uneven cobblestone paths. The sidewalks are marked with different tiles which change patterns with every block. I pass underneath the beautiful architecture of the city, inspired by Italian culture. I see faces of all the city people, they brush shoulders with me on their way to lunch. The students and workers who take lunch break in the park enjoy the afternoon sun on the grass. The kids play futbol on any stretch of space they can find. Crossing the street, I have to dodge the fast moving taxis and Peugots who run the road.

Taking a taxi is an adventure in itself. There are no rules of the road, no signs, no lines, no speed limits, nothing is off limits. It is easy to get from one side of the city to the other in a taxi in less than 15 minutes. The taxis are decorated with rosaries and pictures of saints, but it is not prayers the drivers recite to one another when they whiz through the streets. Some taxis decorate their cars with stereos, making sure to play American pop music when the students take a ride. The taxis share the road with the few cars on the street, including the most popular, Peugeots.

Very few people own cars in the city, however, the people who do own vehicles, drive them to the very last mile. The antique cars that we would display in car shows are being driven through the streets of Buenos Aires. Most people do not see the need for cars, unless they have a house in campo, or the country, in which they need transportation out of the city. However, most people get by with use of scooters.

Motorcars are the most effective modes of transportation in the city. The majority of scooter riders are the messengers of stores like, ice cream parlors, movie rental stores and empanada restaurants. In Buenos Aires, you can have anything delivered to your door. Scooters have no reservations when on the road. The navigate through the streets with their helmets resting on their foreheads. They buzz past traffic, weaving in and out of the lines of taxis. They skip lights and travel on the sidewalks amongst the pedestrians. The scooters rev their loud motors waiting for the lights to change. Here, the lights are different in that they change from red, to yellow, to green, back again to yellow then red. So, when crossing the street, a yellow light does not necessarily mean the light is going to turn red and it is safe to cross, sometimes the light turns green!

The kings of the road and most popular mode of travel are the colectivos, or city buses. There are hundreds of different buses that roam all over the city. They are each very unique in color and its design. They are decorated with bold green, red and blue paints that is stylistic to Buenos Aires, known as filefeado. Inside, the windows are lined with fringe. There are few seats, so most people are subject to stand. At night, some of the buses are illuminated with blue lights running down the aisles and through the ceilings, it makes the buses look more like a night club than a city bus.

My favorite way to get around the city is underground. The five lines of the subte cover most of the city’s expanse. I usually take the green line which follows straight through the city from one end, the Plaza Mayo, right through my neighborhood to Belgrano on the other side of the city. The subtes are cheap to ride too. For only $1,10 you can ride the subtes all day long, changing lines and directions. Subtes fill up during rush hour times, making them more of cattle cars than subte cars. The subte system was designed by the British, so some of the stops are on the opposite side of the car. It is important to pay attention to which doors are going to open so you do not miss your stop!

I have found that exploring the city is easy with all the ways I can get around. And, it makes for an interesting adventure discovering all of these methods of transportation.

Viva Argentina

After spending much time in the city, one thing I have noticed as a great difference between Buenos Aires and home in Boston is the national pride they display. Of course with the World Cup Soccer Championships ending right when I landed in the city there were flags and banners lining the streets. But, beyond the national colors I have noticed that the people take pride in their country. They love to talk to the students about their history and culture.

Today, I went to an Argentina and Spain futbol game at the River Plate Stadium with over 60,000 other fans who were chanting for Argentina. It was here where I noticed that their heart and soul is truly in their country. Of course, the portenos will always cheer for Argentina, but, the past the face paint and tall blue striped hats, you could see the real pain in their faces when forward Lionel Messi missed a goal, or goal keeper Sergio Romero almost let one in. The stadium itself was filled to the top with these exuberant fans for just a practice match. People took up seats on top of fences, on the stairwells and in the pathways just to get a view. The fans had cheers and songs that everyone in the stadium sang to. The people at the stadium, of all ages, embraced each other with each goal. The pride that was sweeping through the stadium was overwhelming. Both kids and adults alike were wearing their favorite team jersey filling the stadium of sky blue.

There was no music to get the crowd excited because the crowd was it’s own music. There was no halftime show or cheerleaders because the distraction would have been too much to take away from the game. However, at the end of the match, the sky was filled with fireworks of blue and white congratulating the Argentina National team.

The people in the stadium came together not as a crowd, but as a family, all for the same team. They were a unit. Of course, the natives have an easy time weeding out the foreign students from the crowd, despite our attempts to blend in with Argentina jerseys. They love to talk and to ask questions.

Apart from the stadium, national pride runs through the streets. The streets are named after presidents, political leaders and influential men of Argentine history. Each intersection is marked with grand statues and art hundreds of feet in the air. Some, are gifts from Spain, England and the United States; but most are monuments of famous Argentines who still hold the hearts of the portenos.

Everywhere you walk the flags wave proudly, the people hold their heads high when walking past their favorite monuments on the streets named after their ancestors. The people of South America live off of it, they embrace it because it is their history.

A Traditional Country

In a city so rich with culture and history, of course comes many traditions from the people. After living here for two months I have picked up on a few of the traditions and norms that the locals follow. It has been a fascinating process of seeing the different customs and then becoming used to them as second nature. For instance, greetings are always accompanied by a kiss on the cheek. Men and women alike. In place of handshakes and hugs, the portenos give besos!

At home, we celebrate girls’ sweet 16 birthdays. Here in South America they celebrate the “Quinceanos”, or 15th birthday. It does not seem like such a difference, but after listening to the stories of the traditional Quinceanos fiestas, they are very different. My younger host sister, Macarena, has described to me the lavish blue gowns the girls wear and the mile high cakes for the birthday celebration. The party is usually at a club, and the more people the better! The quinceanos traditionally recognizes many birthday girls at the party instead of one birthday girl at one party like we do at home.

I have also had to adjust to the sleeping and eating patterns of Buenos Aires. On weekdays Argentines have a light breakfast, and when they come home from work around 5pm they have a late lunch and take a “seista” or nap. At 9pm, when they wake again, they have dinner. After dinner, they leave to meet friends at the cafes and bars for coffee and drinks. On weekends, they leave the bar around 1am or 2am and go to the boliches or dance clubs, generally not getting home until 6 in the morning. This typical week sounds exhausting, but a nice seista in the middle of the day breaks it up nicely.

The pace of the country is very slow, in comparison to the United States. Although it is a big city, the people are in no rush, apart from the taxis who swerve in between cars. A typical meal at a restaurant takes anywhere from 2 to 3 hours until you are able to call the waiter for the check. At school, the classes all start 10 minutes later than scheduled. It is relaxing to not be rushed, but frustrating at times when you are in a hurry.

We also have traditions in my house as well. Every Sunday afternoon for instance my family has raviolis for lunch. It has become a family gathering where we talk about our weekend and plans for the upcoming week. Also, we have gnocchis on the last day of each month. Gnocchis are delicious rolled up pastas which are very popular here in Buenos Aires.

The few little traditions I have picked out are amongst a whole culture of traditions and norms that I continue to explore and learn. Buenos Aires is rich with life and influence from Spain and Italy and North America as well. I can see similarities but I love learning all about the differences.

Food for Thought

In a literature class we talked about the significance of life, what life means, what it means to us, what is important and what is valued. This brought up a story of a man in the rural Pampas of Argentina who was approached by a “civilized” man of the city. The Pampas man was lying in the grass, enjoying the sun and the clear day when the city man asked what he was doing. The Pampas man explained he was resting. Confused at this remark, the city man asked why he had no work. He said to the Pampas man, “There must be something you can do.” He shrugged and asked, “What kind of work?” The city man replied, “You can grow things on a piece of land and sell them.” The Pampas man asked, “What for?” He said, “Well if you sell enough things you can buy more land for a farm and sell more products and become rich.” The Pampas man replied, “What will I do when I am rich?” The city man said, “Well when you are rich you can sell the land, buy a house and retire and lay in the sun all day.” The Pampas man said, “That’s what I was doing.”

This story shows that many of us value different things in life however, it is not always about monetary gains. Life should not be about getting ahead, or being the best; it is not a competition or race. Life is simply being you, and enjoying everyday as it is.

As I thought more about this story it is easy to apply this to being abroad. Very easily we can be swept up by the stress and anxiety of new places, customs and a new lifestyle, but if you remember to enjoy life and appreciate all the little things then being in a new place is a fun adventure.

Keeping a positive attitude and reminding yourself to do things that make you happy. Because, that is what life is all about!

Class in Belgrano

A semester's worth!

The Actual Studying of Study Abroad

After my first successful week of classes I am ready to begin this semester! At Merrimack College I study Communications and Elementary Education, here at the Universidad de Belgrano, I am taking five classes ranging from Argentina Literature to Arte Contemporaneo. The wide range of courses keeps learning interesting and I have the opportunity to receive class credit as well as learn more about this amazing country and it’s history!

It was a long process relaying messages between Belgrano and Merrimack to approve courses and get the right credits I would need to fulfill this semester, but after a few changes I finally have my permanent class schedule.

I take classes from Monday to Thursday, my earliest class starting at 1pm. I usually end classes at Belgrano around 6pm everyday. Before classes I have breakfast and lunch at home and read up on the day’s agenda for my classes. I have three courses on Monday and Wednesday and two on Tuesday and Thursday which gives me time to break up my homework and work on projects.

The books for the courses are much different from books at Merrimack or any other American university. In place of text books we use bound photocopied packets. This is helpful because we are able to share the copies and highlight without worrying about reselling our books at the end of the semester.

Also, at Belgrano we use a card attendance system. All the students have Belgrano identification cards that we use swipe into the doors of our classrooms which verifies our attendance for the day. We swipe before 1pm and after 1pm in a ten minute span, which makes having a class right at 1 o’clock difficult. Classes start later than scheduled, usually 10-15 minutes behind schedule so that cards can be swiped and changing of classes is not too hectic in the halls.

In class, the rooms are divided by rows of long wooden tables and swivel chairs nailed to the floor. All the classrooms use chalkboards although some professors use projectors for powerpoint presentations. The classes run for an hour and a half and immediately follow one another with only ten minutes to spare. It is a good thing all of our classes are only on two floors of the building.

In class, the students are composed of mainly American students. Many of the students are from the West coast, predominantly California. There are also few students from Europe and Canada. There are only a few programs, including API, which make up the mix of international students at Belgrano. Some very small and intimate like API, where others boast 70-80 students in their program. However, between classes students from all programs mix and mingle like a busy high school hallway.

I take three classes in English; History of Latin America, Argentina through Literature as well as Borges Culture and Knowledge. The remaining two classes I take in Spanish; Espanol Intermedio and Arte Argentino Contemporaneo. The professors are native to Buenos Aires, and enjoy helping the American students learn more about their history and culture. I find that the portenos are very proud of their home and truly enjoy sharing with us their heritage, inside and outside of the classroom.

After school, I grab an empanada or sandwich on my way home. I take the subte to school which gives me about a 30 minute commute both ways. At home, me and the kids do our homework together before dinner. Typically the homework is reading from the packets. I had a small homework assignment for Arte, which had me exploring a local museum and writing of the history of art through it’s many periods. We give small presentations in class on the material read, which is helpful for learning Spanish; being able to talk and present a project in Spanish.

I am enjoying all of my days in Buenos Aires, especially school days. Learning about this new culture and it’s rich history by means of academics is a great way to spend my day, and fulfill a semester!

Trying a little local flavor, Tango!

Castellano

What I have discovered about learning a new language in the language’s host country is that you actually learn more from your surroundings than you do studying for hours. Sitting in class helped me remember some of the tedious rules and conjugations, but it is walking the streets where I make connections to Latin roots and find myself much more comprehensive of the world I am in. It is fascinating to be able to grasp bits and pieces of conversations of the people on the subtes and in restaurants, where the white noise of conversation is no longer a white noise at all, it is a learning instrument, a tool for my benefit. Jumping into Argentina with little Spanish background was like stepping back in time 20 years. I feel I am at the same language level as child. Not being able to communicate as effectively by use of words I resort to pantomimes and small vocabulary. It is frustrating, but also incredibly fascinating to see the relay of a message passed from thoughts, to language, to gestures, back to language, then finally understanding the message. As Americans we do rely so heavily on people understanding us where ever we go. It is a comfort, and it is easy to speak your own language. Here, it is a luxury to accomplish a sentence, to communicate effectively, to speak with confidence. These are little things we take for granted in the comfort of our lives. When in fact, it can be a fun and eye opening experience to simply communicate. Studying both communications and education at Merrimack College I am somewhat more curious to the education and process of communication, but I think it is important to pass along. Think of all the convenience you have being able to talk and be understood. The genuine part of communication is that people take pride in their language, and love when the international students try to speak in Spanish, or the native Castellano. It may come out broken and incorrect, but because the effort was there, it is so much more appreciated. And that is what this is all about, giving a little extra effort to show someone you are appreciative of them and what they believe in. To show someone your attempts and in turn, recognizing theirs. Try something new, take a leap, because you may impress yourself with your own strength.

Welcoming our new friends and sending off the old friends. Empandas and Pasta Frola at Carmen, our resident director's home.

History Lesson

In a city so rich with culture and traditions, of course comes much history behind it all. I am so lucky to be apart of this growing city, full of new modern architecture and influence, but also embedded deep with history. Just by walking through the city you can see the stories of the past with the monuments and statues and old buildings.

One of these being one of the most important, and most popular, the Casa Rosada or the Pink House. It is the office of Argentina President, Cristina Fernández de Kirchner. The Casa Rosada is in the Plaza de Mayo, which houses many political buildings. The building was painted pink after Dominigo Sarmiento, sought to defuse political tensions by mixing the red and white colors of the country's opposing political parties. Red for the Federalists and white for the Unitarians. The unique house is a popular tourist spot, and where you can find the Madres de Plaza de Mayo still marching for their lost sons and daughters. The Mothers' association was formed by women who had met each other when trying to find their missing sons and daughters, who were abducted by agents of the Argentine government during the years known as the Dirty War from 1976 to 1983.

Around this time, Argentina was battling with Britain over the Las Islas Malvinas or the Falkland Islands. In 1982 Argentina invaded the Falkland Islands. This precipitated the two-month-long undeclared Falkland War between Argentina and the United Kingdom and resulted in the defeat and withdrawal of the Argentine forces. Today, the great Falkland Islands War Memorial stands near the Plaza de Mayo to honor the many lives lost during the war. In this area you can find many true portenos selling their goods on the streets at the markets.

Also rooted deep in South American history is the gauchos, similar to that of our Western cowboys. Gauchos live on the outside of the growing urban centers and farming settlements, these skilled riders lived from the native cattle. They made up the majority of the rural population, herding cattle on the vas estancias, and practicing hunting as their main economic activity. Like the North American cowboys, gauchos were generally known to be strong, honest, silent types, but proud and capable of violence when provoked. Gauchos' use of the famous "facón" or large knife is legendary. Historically, the facón was typically the only eating instrument that a gaucho carried. The gaucho diet was composed almost entirely of beef while on the range, supplemented by yerba mate, an herbal tea-like drink rich in caffeine and nutrients. A true Argentine carries a mate gourd, a bombilla, and thermos of hot water with them where ever they go. History says the Goddesses of the Moon and the Cloud came to the Earth one day to visit it but they instead found a jaguar that was going to attack them. An old man saved them, and, in compensation, the Goddesses gave the old man a new kind of plant, from which he could prepare a “drink of friendship.”

Much history and stories makes up this city, which makes it such a learning experience to come across these great tales and be a part of the culture here in Buenos Aires.

A Buenos Aires Sunday

The true side of Buenos Aires comes out on the weekends when the stores are closed and the city is quiet, unless you know where to go. Buenos Aires is known for its outdoor fairs and markets, and the weekend really brings these markets to life. Recoleta has a great outdoor artisan market called Plaza Francia that runs each weekend, most commonly referred to as the "Hippie Fair.” This market wraps around the famous Recoleta cemetery where famous Eva “Evita” Peron has been laid to rest. The Recoleta neighborhood is filled with parks, fine museums, galleries, elegant sidewalk cafes and bars as well as many trendy shops and upscale homes. However on the weekends the Recoleta market draws in tourists and locals who come to buy souvenirs and artifacts at the best prices possible. This is one of the reasons why the market is so popular with the local people. The market sets up shop with stalls offering leather goods, local handicrafts and trinkets. The artisans of the city display their goods for eager shoppers and tourists. The market expands for more than a block, creating a snake weave path of tables and booths. The venders sell everything from paintings and pictures to musical instruments, clothing and crafts. Walking between booths everything catches the eye. Most of the merchandise in the outdoor market carries a local flavor and is the perfect place for those who want to get an idea of the city’s essence. There is a lot handmade jewelry made of Argentinian silver and the native pink stone, rhodochrosite. The artists are very proud of their crafts and make an effort to greet you with “holas” and smiles as you pass by. Later in the afternoon there are acts that set up live entertainment, during daylight hours it is usually some sort of acrobatic or slapstick comedy act and at night there are live bands. Walking vendors sell warm peanuts and cinnamon churros. Large wheeled carts pass by with hot water for mate, local favorite of the portenos. The hustle and bustle of the market is fun to walk through, and the things people can make out of wire and silver and leather is extravagant. It is fascinating to see the goods on display, but more fun to watch the artists making them. The market is the best way to get a feel for the true native side of Buenos Aires. Beyond just the things that are sold, the people are the most fascinating to interact with. They love to talk and explain how they made their products and how they are made. They know the history of the silver and stones and leather they use and are proud to show off their crafts. The market is rich with people, and is fun to take time to appreciate the skills that went into the goods.

Exquisite Excursions

Iguazu Falls

Colonia, Uruguay

The wonderful part of studying abroad in South America is the proximity of so many spectacular natural beauties. Argentina’s vast landscape is rich with mountains to the West, bordering Chile; rain forests in the Northeast; bustling Buenos Aires borders the quiet plains of the Pampas, similar to the Arctic like tundra of the South. After a month of staying in Argentina, I have traveled across the Rio de la Plata to neighboring country, Uruguay. Uruguay is a small port country rich with cobblestone roads and deep history behind every wooden door. While in Uruguay, we discovered the beauty of simplicity. The small town we visited, Colonia, had long stone barricades still held up from the long ago Battle of Las Piedras. We climbed the many stairs to the top of the lighthouse which guides brave ships through the rocky coast. As a group, we explored the history in old homes renovated to museums. The homes, which were made entirely of stone, made us appreciate the warmth of our city apartments across the bay. We spent only a few short hours in the small country, but got a taste of true natural life, unaffected by the noise and life of busy Buenos Aires across the river.

After Uruguay, we traveled to Iguazu Falls in the North east of Argentina. The horseshoe shape of the falls has borders shared by Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina. While visiting the falls, you can see all three countries at once. The small town of Iguazu does not measure for the beauty of its natural wonder on the outskirts of the town. While walking through the jungle like paths of the park, you can smell the rush of fresh water just beyond view. The falls are so massive, that you cannot see them in entirety from end to end. It really proves how amazing nature is. That fast moving waters can slice through tall mountains like butter. The falls pour out more than 400,000 gallons per second, with help from the Devil's Throat or the “Garganta del Diablo.” This massive U-shaped, 269’ high cataract, is the most impressive of all, and marks the border between Argentina and Brazil. Being in the presence of these massive falls makes you feel sorry for the first man to come across them on raft. The falls take your breath away with their majestic beauty. The mist swirling in the sun creates rainbows where ever you look. In the warm sun, the native butterflies scatter out of the paths underneath our wet sneakers. It’s an experience that cannot be justified by words. How lucky I feel to be amongst the land, the people and culture of such a beautiful place.

Our API group in front of the Universidad de Belgrano.

A Day in Buenos Aires

Every morning I wake up to the warmth of my space heater, making my little bedroom comfortable. Outside my window, I can see the early rays of the sunrise at 8am. The kids have all left for school already, so it is quiet in the house. I check google weather to see what day I have ahead of me, usually to find yet another beautiful sun shining day. I have instant coffee with Romi and Julio and sometimes munch on granola or sweet dulce de leche spread on a bread roll. I have my keys and my subway pass in my pocket as I leave the apartment to meet Eliza at our Callao subway stop. While walking the three blocks to meet her I look for the fast moving taxis and marvel at the colorful buses that whiz by. Business men walk past me in suits, accompanied by the many dog walkers of the city who’s packs of hounds sniff my legs. I pass by the park where people wake up early to do their morning yoga. They look like synchronized dancers, moving perfectly together. The pigeons scatter out of my way as I make my way finally to the station. Me and Eliza endure a long commute to the other side of the city to Belgrano. The old neighborhood is rich with embellished buildings and tall green palm trees. We walk three more blocks off the subway and pass elementary schools busy with eager learners. We chat about our nights and the silly things our families do. We have to pay attention to our step because of the cobblestones under our boots. On every corner we pass a market who’s store is glowing with the bright fruit of Argentina such as, oranges, mamons and aguais. We are greeted by the university’s grand glass building at the top of the hill. It almost looks out of place because it is so modern and the surrounding buildings are white with clay and brick. The flags of the international student’s home countries wave proudly against the Belgrano sign. Students gather in packs on the outdoor patio before hurrying to class. We take the glass elevator seven stories up and part ways at the top to our classrooms. I am greeted by Eugina, our professor, and five other American students. During class, we can hear the roar of students upstairs in the cafeteria cheering for the futbol game. After a few hours of Spanish, we too retreat upstairs to have an empanada and watch the match. We come downstairs to finish class, which makes it difficult to pay attention when I can see the magnificent city outside my window. All the residents of the buildings have patio gardens and rooftop jungles. After class, my fellow API group members gather outside of school for a quick lunch to fuel ourselves for our city excursions. We walk the city and explore the different neighborhoods. My favorite neighborhood is Puerto Madero, where the old government buildings are contrasted by the new luxurious hotels, such as new multiplex cinemas, theaters and cultural centers. It is now one of the trendiest neighborhoods in Buenos Aires. Old ships line the walls of the port, which is held together by the white tooth pick looking Puente de la Mujer bridge. We peek into the magnificent granite churches, furnished with massive pulpits and golden ceilings holding dancing cherubs. The vendors outside line the streets, trying to catch our eyes with shining jewelry and handcrafted goods. They play drums and drink and sing while the people pass by their tarps of art. At night, the Casa Rosada, the heart of the Plaza de Mayo, where the president of Argentina Christina Fernandez de Kirchner works glows bright with the pink lights that illuminate its grand balconies and walls. Buses circle around to let tourists catch a glimpse of the historic buildings. While walking around the plaza, the smell of the sweet sugar coated peanuts roasting in hot brass bowls makes me hungry. We grab the next subway ride home, packed tight with tired workers. Luckily, we are only a few stops away. We follow the direction of the crowd which drops us off at our busy street, Avenue Santa Fe. We window shop as we pass by the lighted windows of the stores. They are full with boots of all shapes and colors and fashionable clothes straight from the magazines. As we walk we can smell the restaurants cooking dinner for the early crowd, for it is only 8pm here. We are eager to get to our own houses where dinner will be cooking. The kids are busy with homework and studying, and I too take out my homework. Romi serves us dinner late when Julio gets home from work. We all sit as a family in the kitchen and enjoy the gnocchi and bread made fresh. We all laugh at Nacio’s jokes and listen about each other’s days. After dinner we settle down for the night and finish the last of our work. Although all is calm inside, outside the world is bustling with taxis and bright lights. I hear the kids laughing as they walk home. I’m glad to be where I am, amidst the sights and sounds and family.

The First Steps

After arriving in Buenos Aires me and my API group of five other American students from all over the United States stayed at a hotel downtown. The city is divided into regions or neighborhoods to house over 13 million people. The city has over 40 neighborhoods or “barrios” including; Belgrano, Puerto Madero, Recoleta, Retiro, Palermo and La Boca. Belgrano is in the North western part of the city, opposite of La Boca which is in the South east. Retiro is the central neighborhood, close to Palermo which is farther north. The neighborhoods are all unique and different in their architecture, culture and people which mirrors that of turn of the century European style. However, it also has well preserved districts of the typical colonial architecture. While we stayed for a few days in our hotel in Palermo, we did much exploring and wandering on our own. I find this is the best way to learn all about a new city because while walking you stumble upon great unseen avenues and neighborhoods. As new students we were eager to jump right into the busy lifestyle of living in a foreign city. The first few days we had orientations about the city with our resident director, Carmen. She has helped us get to know the city better with both bus and bike tours of the many neighborhoods. We were able to walk the city and see first hand the monuments, architecture and people of Buenos Aires. We took the subte, and taxis and tried our luck with buses too! We traveled to see our University in Belgrano, to which we found is a marvelous one building university full of winter semester students from all over the world. After all of our orientations we were set to meet our host families. All six study abroad students with API will be staying with families in different parts of the city. I am staying with the Tejadas in the Barrio Norte/ Recoleta neighborhood. This part of the city is built up with new, glass buildings, marked with great billboards and streets lined with expensive fashion stores. The buses and taxis rumble by the windows all night long, but it is refreshing to hear life all night long after coming from a very suburban town in Massachusetts. Some people would not like this style living, but, it reminds you that we are a part of an evolving and growing community which is very much alive. My family here consists of Julio, a hard working single father of three teenage children; Ignacio, 10 years old, Macarena, 14 years old and Francisco, 17 years old. Nacio likes sports very much and we often play baseball and soccer on the outside patio. Maca is a spunky teenage girl who likes to sing American pop songs all day and dress in very cool clothes. Franc is in a rock band and always has his guitar handy to jam or make new songs. The kids are great at helping me learn Spanish, while I get to teach them some English too. We have fun watching the Argentina futbol games and talking about our homes. After a few days staying with them I had my first day of school at Universidad de Belgrano. I was accompanied by about 50 other American students who also will be taking the intensive language course with me. We have been split into classes according to our language level. I am in class with five other students in which we only speak Spanish in class, forcing us to test our knowledge and challenge ourselves. The class runs from 9:30am to 2:30pm, with short intervals in between. Although, it seems a long time to be in class, we are all so excited to be learning something constructive and useful. It is humbling to be so accepted by the people of Buenos Aires with my little language skills, where locals in the United States I find get frustrated quickly at the foreign travelers visiting. It really puts into perspective our human nature at work and the big picture of people.

Arrival in Argentina

The horizon of the Argentinian mountains is illuminated by an early 5am pink sunrise. Landing in Buenos Aires was very easy after meeting a friendly Argentinian couple in the Miami International Airport who helped me along. Baggage was fine although a little damp from the storm that had delayed my flight a few hours, and international customs was quick. I felt like I had Argentina in my hand until my international phone would not let me place calls, my blackberry had no signal and the airport had no wireless internet service. I suddenly felt stranded in the middle of an urban airport with no communication. After stressing for a few minutes and evaluating my area I kept thinking, “If I can get through this, than I can get through anything.” And I did. Flashing back 12 hours earlier and my journey starts in Miami International Airport. After my 2:30pm flight from Logan Airport in Boston to Miami I was more than excited to begin this adventure. I had a short layover in Miami before I boarded my plane to Buenos Aires for 8:30pm. Traveling in itself is a great adventure between baggage checks, waiting in terminals, passports and idle time, never mind the language barrier on top of that. Many families with small children also took the long flight and are also experiencing the same anxiety to touch down in Buenos Aires that I am. I am nervous about what awaits me, but also eager to start this journey. I have high expectations of friendly people, a lovely community and a culture rich with history and art and life. I am exhilarated to jump into this semester. I am hoping for the best, but I also know to expect the worst. It is difficult to leave behind the normalities and comfort of family and friends who wait for me in New England, but I know I am approaching a new life that will surprise me. Home is where you are happy, moreover where good people are. When I arrive in Argentina I will be staying with a family, as opposed to residence hall or apartment style living. This has given me a different outlook on the trip I have ahead of me. I can imagine the recreational parks I will walk by where the school kids play futbol after class. I can smell my breakfast of rich coffee and fruit from a small market store. I can hear the street dancers on the cobblestone alleys entertaining with their tango dancing. The familiar smell of the crisp salt of the Atlantic lingers a few blocks away. I imagine the laundry lines hanging from window to window, where below people gather on apartment stoops to gossip. After work and school the families will gather at home for a large dinner full of laughs and stories. I see Argentinians or “portenos” with great national pride, their blue and white striped flags waving proudly from their small apartment windows. With the World Cup in progress I can see the streets filled with excited fans chanting for Messi and Argentina’s national team to win it all. I expect my home to be filled with laughs and fun as I try to interact slowly with the three teenagers I will be sharing a home with. It will be interesting to see the communication between us as we have studied each others language in school. I see my college to be a spread campus, much different to that of Merrimack College. I hope to be able to interact with the students beyond the classroom. I see free time as an opportunity to test my language skills as well as interpersonal skills with the locals. I know I will be able to enjoy my environment and appreciate the gift of studying abroad. I expect the semester to fly by, but also give me an opportunity to stop and enjoy my place. As the plane door closes, another one opens.

One Week

Almost a week before I leave my home for a five month excursion in Buenos Aires, Argentina! Between the excitement and countdown I am anticipating the fun challenge of studying abroad. Although I have been doing research on Argentinian culture, politics and traditions, I know that I will be emerged in a society much more rich than any resource can explain. I look forward to the differences between my normal routine at Merrimack College and the new routine I will have at Universidad de Belgrano. I have been trying to prepare myself for the language barrier with spanish CDs and books but, I also realize the most significant experience of studying in a foreign country is communicating with the locals by means of pantomiming and charades! I have heard that Rosetta Stone can familiarize you with the language, but the immersion in the spanish language will help the most. The familiar or slang terms in Spanish will be interesting to pick up, as well as teaching my host family some English terms. Packing for a trip like this is also a difficult task as well because although I have travelled before, I have never been away from home for five months before! I made sure to pack light, but have packed according to the geographic locale of Argentina. The seasons and weather will be much different than home, as July in Argentina is winter! Albeit, the Argentinian winter is typically 50- 60 degrees fahrenheit. I know there will be many differences in South America but I look forward to challenging myself and uncovering the beauty behind this magnificent experience!