Welcoming our new friends and sending off the old friends. Empandas and Pasta Frola at Carmen, our resident director's home.

History Lesson

In a city so rich with culture and traditions, of course comes much history behind it all. I am so lucky to be apart of this growing city, full of new modern architecture and influence, but also embedded deep with history. Just by walking through the city you can see the stories of the past with the monuments and statues and old buildings.

One of these being one of the most important, and most popular, the Casa Rosada or the Pink House. It is the office of Argentina President, Cristina Fernández de Kirchner. The Casa Rosada is in the Plaza de Mayo, which houses many political buildings. The building was painted pink after Dominigo Sarmiento, sought to defuse political tensions by mixing the red and white colors of the country's opposing political parties. Red for the Federalists and white for the Unitarians. The unique house is a popular tourist spot, and where you can find the Madres de Plaza de Mayo still marching for their lost sons and daughters. The Mothers' association was formed by women who had met each other when trying to find their missing sons and daughters, who were abducted by agents of the Argentine government during the years known as the Dirty War from 1976 to 1983.

Around this time, Argentina was battling with Britain over the Las Islas Malvinas or the Falkland Islands. In 1982 Argentina invaded the Falkland Islands. This precipitated the two-month-long undeclared Falkland War between Argentina and the United Kingdom and resulted in the defeat and withdrawal of the Argentine forces. Today, the great Falkland Islands War Memorial stands near the Plaza de Mayo to honor the many lives lost during the war. In this area you can find many true portenos selling their goods on the streets at the markets.

Also rooted deep in South American history is the gauchos, similar to that of our Western cowboys. Gauchos live on the outside of the growing urban centers and farming settlements, these skilled riders lived from the native cattle. They made up the majority of the rural population, herding cattle on the vas estancias, and practicing hunting as their main economic activity. Like the North American cowboys, gauchos were generally known to be strong, honest, silent types, but proud and capable of violence when provoked. Gauchos' use of the famous "facón" or large knife is legendary. Historically, the facón was typically the only eating instrument that a gaucho carried. The gaucho diet was composed almost entirely of beef while on the range, supplemented by yerba mate, an herbal tea-like drink rich in caffeine and nutrients. A true Argentine carries a mate gourd, a bombilla, and thermos of hot water with them where ever they go. History says the Goddesses of the Moon and the Cloud came to the Earth one day to visit it but they instead found a jaguar that was going to attack them. An old man saved them, and, in compensation, the Goddesses gave the old man a new kind of plant, from which he could prepare a “drink of friendship.”

Much history and stories makes up this city, which makes it such a learning experience to come across these great tales and be a part of the culture here in Buenos Aires.

A Buenos Aires Sunday

The true side of Buenos Aires comes out on the weekends when the stores are closed and the city is quiet, unless you know where to go. Buenos Aires is known for its outdoor fairs and markets, and the weekend really brings these markets to life. Recoleta has a great outdoor artisan market called Plaza Francia that runs each weekend, most commonly referred to as the "Hippie Fair.” This market wraps around the famous Recoleta cemetery where famous Eva “Evita” Peron has been laid to rest. The Recoleta neighborhood is filled with parks, fine museums, galleries, elegant sidewalk cafes and bars as well as many trendy shops and upscale homes. However on the weekends the Recoleta market draws in tourists and locals who come to buy souvenirs and artifacts at the best prices possible. This is one of the reasons why the market is so popular with the local people. The market sets up shop with stalls offering leather goods, local handicrafts and trinkets. The artisans of the city display their goods for eager shoppers and tourists. The market expands for more than a block, creating a snake weave path of tables and booths. The venders sell everything from paintings and pictures to musical instruments, clothing and crafts. Walking between booths everything catches the eye. Most of the merchandise in the outdoor market carries a local flavor and is the perfect place for those who want to get an idea of the city’s essence. There is a lot handmade jewelry made of Argentinian silver and the native pink stone, rhodochrosite. The artists are very proud of their crafts and make an effort to greet you with “holas” and smiles as you pass by. Later in the afternoon there are acts that set up live entertainment, during daylight hours it is usually some sort of acrobatic or slapstick comedy act and at night there are live bands. Walking vendors sell warm peanuts and cinnamon churros. Large wheeled carts pass by with hot water for mate, local favorite of the portenos. The hustle and bustle of the market is fun to walk through, and the things people can make out of wire and silver and leather is extravagant. It is fascinating to see the goods on display, but more fun to watch the artists making them. The market is the best way to get a feel for the true native side of Buenos Aires. Beyond just the things that are sold, the people are the most fascinating to interact with. They love to talk and explain how they made their products and how they are made. They know the history of the silver and stones and leather they use and are proud to show off their crafts. The market is rich with people, and is fun to take time to appreciate the skills that went into the goods.

Exquisite Excursions

Iguazu Falls

Colonia, Uruguay

The wonderful part of studying abroad in South America is the proximity of so many spectacular natural beauties. Argentina’s vast landscape is rich with mountains to the West, bordering Chile; rain forests in the Northeast; bustling Buenos Aires borders the quiet plains of the Pampas, similar to the Arctic like tundra of the South. After a month of staying in Argentina, I have traveled across the Rio de la Plata to neighboring country, Uruguay. Uruguay is a small port country rich with cobblestone roads and deep history behind every wooden door. While in Uruguay, we discovered the beauty of simplicity. The small town we visited, Colonia, had long stone barricades still held up from the long ago Battle of Las Piedras. We climbed the many stairs to the top of the lighthouse which guides brave ships through the rocky coast. As a group, we explored the history in old homes renovated to museums. The homes, which were made entirely of stone, made us appreciate the warmth of our city apartments across the bay. We spent only a few short hours in the small country, but got a taste of true natural life, unaffected by the noise and life of busy Buenos Aires across the river.

After Uruguay, we traveled to Iguazu Falls in the North east of Argentina. The horseshoe shape of the falls has borders shared by Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina. While visiting the falls, you can see all three countries at once. The small town of Iguazu does not measure for the beauty of its natural wonder on the outskirts of the town. While walking through the jungle like paths of the park, you can smell the rush of fresh water just beyond view. The falls are so massive, that you cannot see them in entirety from end to end. It really proves how amazing nature is. That fast moving waters can slice through tall mountains like butter. The falls pour out more than 400,000 gallons per second, with help from the Devil's Throat or the “Garganta del Diablo.” This massive U-shaped, 269’ high cataract, is the most impressive of all, and marks the border between Argentina and Brazil. Being in the presence of these massive falls makes you feel sorry for the first man to come across them on raft. The falls take your breath away with their majestic beauty. The mist swirling in the sun creates rainbows where ever you look. In the warm sun, the native butterflies scatter out of the paths underneath our wet sneakers. It’s an experience that cannot be justified by words. How lucky I feel to be amongst the land, the people and culture of such a beautiful place.